I sanded for what seemed like hours. That was followed by primer, 1 coat of paint, hours of drying, another coat of paint, more hours of drying, and a sealer…all while inhaling some serious fumes. Other than sanding the top. The link is my bio. Would you even believe me if I said I made this scroll using items from Dollar Tree??
This is greenery I already had at home. Link in bio, per usual. How many of you have tried chalk painting? And if not, what holds you back? Head to my stories to get the details on these painted pumpkins…a super easy DIY swipe to see the before. What are your favorite fall colors?
I finally got around to giving these barstools a makeover and I lurvvvve them! What kinds of things are you hoping to accomplish? My recommendations:. For larger projects , like furniture, Rust-oleum Chalked Paint is the best bang for your buck. It all comes down to how you want to apply the protective layer.
Wax is applied with a wax brush or sponge, while the polyurethane can be applied with a brush. Staining sponge! Chalk Paint Hack 2: Use a staining sponge instead instead of a waxing brush to cut your wax time half. My recommendation:. Yes, some of the bristles do shed…but, just keep a toothpick nearby to easily remove them when painting. Chalk Paint Hack 3: Skip the more expensive chalk paint brushes and go with cheap chip paint brushes.
If you plan on distressing any of your furniture, my two go-to items to make it go quick and easy are:. For me, this was removing all the handles from the drawers. Some tutorials will tell you to do some light sanding before you chalk paint if there are any imperfections on your piece. Honestly, I find this step unnecessary and I rarely if ever do that. I personally feel like all the imperfections give the piece of furniture more character, so I leave it as is.
Apply your first coat of paint. Once you apply the wax with the round brush, then go back and rub it in and off the surface of the paint with a soft t-shirt rag. The wax needs to be wiped into the paint and then you let it dry. Then you go back and buff with a soft t-shirt fabric. You have to remove the wax first. There is an exception to this rule: some chalk paint manufacturers say their paint will adhere to wax once it's cured. Annie Sloan is one brand who claims their chalk paint can be used over their own brand of wax , and I have done this myself with success.
The paint dries to a matte finish , which creates a chalky appearance and gives the paint its name. Chalky paint is typically known as a furniture paint although you can use it on any surface, inside or out. The cool thing about the Behr chalk paint is that it's easily tintable to match almost any Behr color.
There's a dark base and a white base, which is what I used for today's comparison, but you can tint the paint using any color you like. Explore the colour card Chalk White.
Lilac Wine. Antique White. Salted Caramel. Use what works best for you and suits your piece. Most chalk paint brands say you can choose to leave it unsealed too, but I don't recommend it. Chalk paint is very porous and will pick up stains and look a mess in no time if you don't seal it with something.
There are two different schools of thought of whether to wax before distressing and after or to distress first, then wax. Annie Sloan herself recommends applying at least one layer of wax first before distressing because the paint is very chalky and can produce a lot of dust when sanding. You may need to re- wax your cabinets in a few years based on the usage, but overall, a periodic buffing should be more than adequate to maintain a superior finish.
While I've heard it advised to wait 24 hours and to add your clear wax before distressing, I pretty much get after it as soon as the paint is dry to the touch. With that said- yes, in general… you should be able to paint over a waxed piece right away. Could be even the same day. Wipe piece clean. Wood filler. You can also use a traditional primer as well.
As for sanding, the general answer again is no. However, if you have a super slick surface or non-porous surface like laminate or glass, you may want to apply a coat of Slick Stick first. This will help the paint to adhere better to those surfaces.
Most wood surfaces do not require this prep! When painting a dresser or table, I like to start at the bottom. On a horizontal surface, try to go from side to side without stopping, always keeping a wet edge.
If you are painting something white or off white over a dark piece, you will probably need three coats for solid coverage. If you want your piece more distressed, you may be happy after only two coats.
Darker colors have excellent coverage and rarely need more than two coats. It is more of a vintage white and because it has some pigment in it, it gives great coverage in two coats. The second and third coats will go on more smoothly if you add a tiny bit of water to your paint. I usually forget. So if you find the subsequent coats to be a bit harder to work, you can either use a continuous mister and spray it to keep it moist as you go, or you can dip your paint brush in a cup of water about every third or fourth pass before dipping it into the paint.
I am a bit heavy handed with the paint, so I do not usually have any issues. True story! Your surface will feel a bit rough to the touch after painting with chalk paint.
You will need to lightly sand across all surfaces, applying a little more pressure on edges and details where you want a distressed look. For this I use grit sandpaper. Usually, I hand sand like I did on the holes I patched earlier, but for this piece, I used my orbital sander :. This sander does a nice even job on the top and sides. You will have less control though, so if you want very minimal distressing, I recommend sanding by hand. After all surfaces are smooth to the touch, I use a shop vac with a brush attachment to vacuum up all the chalk paint dust from the surfaces.
Then I discovered one made by Dixie Belle. It was a game-changer for me! They actually have two. The first is their Clear Coat in a satin finish. Here is just one of the many projects I have used their Clear Coat Satin sealer and sponge applicator on:. If that happens, just paint over them, and reseal.
The second sealer Dixie Belle has is called Gator Hide , which is a more heavy-duty sealer that will give your pieces a waterproof finish. This option is great for high traffic pieces, and I have even used both on different parts of the same piece at times. Wax is another option and what I used to seal this dresser long before I discovered the Satin Clear coat. The wax will bond with the paint to create a long-lasting durable finish. Wax takes 21 days to fully cure, so use your furniture piece with care until then.
I buy rags in the paint section at Lowes in these big bags:. Dip your cloth or brush in the wax and apply to the surface, working in small sections. Then buff it into the surface.
On this drawer, I started across the top going back and forth pushing the wax into the surface. Just a few strokes back and forth and you will be able to feel how smooth the surface is.
If it is still tacky or sticky, continue to wipe until smooth to the touch. For a drawer like this, I actually would cover the whole surface with wax, then buff it off. For a larger surface, I would work in sections, moving back and forth across the surface.
Try not to stop in the center as you will feel the wax build up there a bit. Try to go from edge to edge, working quickly. You will need to switch cloths as wax begins to build up. After you have covered the entire surface, wait about minutes and then go back with another clean soft cloth and buff for more sheen.
For horizontal surfaces that will get a lot of wear such as a table top or dresser top, I add a second coat an hour or so later. I usually continue to use the cloths until they are no longer functional, then toss them, but they can be washed. If you want to enhance your finish or highlight details with dark or colored wax to add a bit more character, apply after the clear wax and in small amounts.
Chalk paint is very porous and will really soak up the darker waxes, so this will prevent that and give you a bit more control. If you use too much, add a little clear wax to remove it. Continue to work it into the surface until it feels smooth to the touch. Use a separate cloth or brush for each kind of wax. Adding the jewelry is my favorite part! I love when I can reuse the original hardware. I often use chalk paint for the hardware as well, but sometimes I use spray paint as I did for this dresser.
Rustoleum is my favorite brand of spray paint. This is Rustoleum in Satin Heirloom White. Or if you are using chalk paint, you can even use your fingernail to scratch a little paint off here and there to give it a distressed finish.
This step is optional of course, but if your project piece has drawers, lining them is the icing on the cake:. A rotary cutter and straight edge make it super easy to cut the pieces. Try to match up the pattern for a seamless look.
I apply that with Matte Mod Podge and a chip brush. You can see how I do that in the video below:. Chalk paint is not just for furniture either, it works wonders on metal, plastic, laminate, glass, and fabric! The discount will automatically be applied at checkout!
Feel free to reach out to me via the Contact Me tab if you have any more questions! Comments Thank you for this! This is one of my absolute favorite blogs and you inspire me every day. This post is so timely for me because I just finished chalk painting a headboard bench that I built following your instructions. What would you suggest?
Hi Wendy! Thank you so much for your sweet words! You are correct in that wax is not recommended for outdoor use. Thanks so much for following along. Helmsman Spar Urethane — clear satin. I just used it on a light grey stained screen door and it did not yellow the stain. Went on clear and not too glossy. Thanks so much Christy for the tutorial.
Your unreal transformation of thrifted finds has prompted me to try this with your recipe. Thank you for sharing this post! As with yourself, I am so disappointed that summer is coming to an end, my daughter goes back to school tomorrow…bye bye beach! Have a great fall! You are so welcome, Beth! My kids have one more week left before school starts and we are trying to make the most of it!
You did a fantabulous job and what a great tutorial. Read every bit of it and learned a lot. Thank you! Wow, Christy, great tips! After a while, the drop cloth is fun to cut up and make things with.
Lesson learned. Thanks, Christina! Yes those drop cloths can be used for so many great projects. This was all I could find this time around, but it works great.
Thank you so much, Christy, for putting together this video! It is an awesome reference tool! Love your straightforward down-to-earth style of writing and instruction! Thank you so much for the tutorial! I love your painted pieces but have yet to try painting one of my own — perhaps now, with such wonderful instructions, I will finally try! Thank you so much for the step by step with complete pictures. I gives me the confidence to try a project.
My question is about the wax. Does it seal and protect thru all paints? I have a office chair I am going to paint the seat with chalk paint and all the plastic parts were painted with Rustoleum. Not sure if I should wax the legs, arms etc. You are so welcome! Great question! I have used wax on other painted surfaces though, so you could if you wanted to.
Thank you for the tutorial on chalk painting. As you can imagine, there are lots of other tutorials regarding how to chalk paint. You have listed all the steps which is a nice change of pace. I do have a question regarding using chalk paint for a table or dresser top. I have read other blogs which they had advised not to wax the table top and using a topcoat instead. Have you had any problems with using wax instead? Also, had to you clean a table top after the wax has been applied?
These are the best instructions ever. Even though I do use the chalk paint I love to read your instructions and learn a few tricks or remind me of what I may have overlooked. Beautiful work. Thanks so much, Jolinda! I know there are a lot of tutorials out there already, but thought it would be helpful to my sweet readers when they have questions.
So sorry for the not reading before sending. Do you use something special? Hey Christine! In response to your earlier question about the topcoat, I have heard of people using a polyurethane or a polyacrylic, but I have only used wax and have had no issues.
It is recommended to be gentle with your surfaces until it has had time to fully cure which is about 21 days. The wax will harden to a very durable surface. That said, I would like to try a poly to seal to see if you get the same lustrous finish as wax provides. I clean my surfaces with Pledge. Hope this answers your questions. This is a wonderful step-by-step tutorial, Christy.
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